Other Pearson/Westerbeke/Perkins Stuff
Rebuilders And Parts
BTW, a Westerbeke w40 is a Perkins 4-180 long block
Some Important Stuff:
1) Be sure your oil lines are in good condition if they run external to the engine to and from the filter. Also- add an automatic shutdown or unmistakable alarm to warn of low oil pressure. When a line blows, you will probably not be looking at the gages, and the pressure is gone in a matter of seconds. I was on my way to the Bahamas when mine blew. The engine slowed a bit and then the cabin sole began jumping up and down with some God-awful pounding before I could get it shut down. The only good part is that I was only 40 miles from home (FL west coast) when it happened and I was able to sail most of the way back. I thought the engine was toast, but when I replaced the oil lines and changed the oil a couple times, the thing seemed to be OK with 60 pounds of pressure and no knocks other than the usual racket.
2) The second episode was due partly to what I consider a design weakness and partly due to my hurried maintenance in preparation for a 5 day trip. The raw water pump on my engine is driven off the end of the camshaft. The end of the pump is directly coupled to the block. The only thing between the inards of the block and the salt water in the pump is a small rubber seal running on the water pump shaft and two sealed bearings. There is a weep hole between the two to supposedly let water out before it gets to the sealed bearings. The sealed bearings MUST be installed with sealant (Permatex #2 or such). The things that got me were:
a) I installed a new Stainless Steel and Rubber seal, but the shaft itself was worn enough that water got by it.
b) I didn't bed the bearings in enough sealant to prevent water getting around them.
The result of all this was that salt water slowly got by the bearings over 4 hours of running until the oil thickened to an almost grease like consistency. I was looking at the oil pressure when it seized. It was normal, but must have been so thick it wasn't going anywhere.
So now I am pondering how to attack the rebuild. I am open to suggestions from others here, as I haven't rebuilt a diesel before and I am contemplating doing it in the boat if the cylinders are OK. I should be able to do the bearings after I get up it out of the bilge and onto the main cabin sole (protected by plywood).
Check This Out
BEFORE You DO anything
We had our Westerbeke w40 (Perkins 4-108) rebuilt by Mark and Jimmy at
Jobbers Inc.
1601 Fairmount Ave, In Phily.. 215-236-8503
They did a beautiful job, But, it cost us $6,000
Also, check out
Trans Atlantic Diesels for New Perkins (Westerbeke) Engines
800-927-9295 804-642-9296 Shelly
Might wnat to check this out
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Westerbeke 40 Parts
Boatman's Marine
oil cooler and heat exchangers Etc. in Pa
Cetec Benmar
Autopilot Home Page
westerbekt w 40-108
navy whale boat LB40
Autopilot Home Page
Linksys
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2) The second episode was due partly to what I consider a design weakness and partly due to my hurried maintenance in preparation for a 5 day trip. The raw water pump on my engine is driven off the end of the camshaft. The end of the pump is directly coupled to the block. The only thing between the inards of the block and the salt water in the pump is a small rubber seal running on the water pump shaft and two sealed bearings. There is a weep hole between the two to supposedly let water out before it gets to the sealed bearings. The sealed bearings MUST be installed with sealant (Permatex #2 or such). The things that got me were:
a) I installed a new Stainless Steel and Rubber seal, but the shaft itself was worn enough that water got by it.
b) I didn't bed the bearings in enough sealant to prevent water getting around them.
The result of all this was that salt water slowly got by the bearings over 4 hours of running until the oil thickened to an almost grease like consistency. I was looking at the oil pressure when it seized. It was normal, but must have been so thick it wasn't going anywhere.
So now I am pondering how to attack the rebuild. I am open to suggestions from others here, as I haven't rebuilt a diesel before and I am contemplating doing it in the boat if the cylinders are OK. I should be able to do the bearings after I get up it out of the bilge and onto the main cabin sole (protected by plywood).
Check This Out BEFORE You DO anything
We had our Westerbeke w40 (Perkins 4-108) rebuilt by Mark and Jimmy at
Jobbers Inc. 1601 Fairmount Ave, In Phily.. 215-236-8503
They did a beautiful job, But, it cost us $6,000
Also, check out Trans Atlantic Diesels for New Perkins (Westerbeke) Engines
800-927-9295 804-642-9296 Shelly
Might wnat to check this out to br